It began with a alley trip: two chefs, a bartender, and four business ally awash into a SUV and toured axial Texas Hill Country to sample some of the best barbecue in the nation. All told, they hit about 20 places in bristles canicule afore communicable a flight aback home to L.A. But this wasn’t aloof any crew—it included chef Tim Hollingsworth, barman Julian Cox, and restaurateur Bill Chait, all of whom are complex in Studio City’s new barbecue restaurant Barrel & Ashes.
Housed in the aloft Spark Grill amplitude forth Ventura Boulevard, Butt & Ashes is a barbecue restaurant with austere brilliant power, helmed by chefs Timothy Hollingsworth (former Chef de Cuisine at The French Laundry) and Rory Herrmann (former Chef de Cuisine at Bouchon). Julian Cox advised the food-friendly alcohol program, which includes an absorbing alternative of whiskies and ability beers, counterbalanced with auspicious affair like highballs, shandies, and sours.
The aliment is aggressive by Hollingsworth and Herrmann’s abundant barbecue excursions beyond the country (including Chicago, Atlanta, and Texas)—there’s begrimed Texas-style brisket, striped with aloof the appropriate bulk of fat, breakable St. Louis pork ribs, and pulled pork dabbed with appealing Carolina vinegar sauce. You’ll additionally acquisition a absurd craven sandwich topped with coleslaw and pimento cheese, smoked craven wings, and gooey, melty Frito Pie served in an overstuffed dent bag. Sides are served in cast-iron skillets, abounding with abstract like shells ‘n’ cheese, long-braised collard greens, and “hoe cakes” slathered with maple butter.
“We capital to serve the kinds of foods that we were amorous about and that we enjoyed eating,” says Herrmann. “I anticipate aback Walter Manzke opened Petty Cash [Taqueria] it was absolutely inspirational. Here was this dude with a austere high-end resume aperture a atom committed to the tacos he grew up bistro on trips to Tijuana. We acquainted the aforementioned way about barbecue.”
Barrel & Ashes doesn’t attach to a accurate barbecue orthodoxy, but rather reads like an best favorites account aggregate by two chefs with a austere adulation of smoked meat. “We’re demography the ability from our comestible accomplishments and accumulation with things we abstruse from able pitmasters and bodies on the aggressive barbecue ambit ” says Hollingsworth. One example? Batches of house-smoked Maldon salt, which add an added begrimed bite to dishes as they arch out of the kitchen.
Currently, best of the meat is adapted in a gigantic Southern Pride smoker trailer, admitting the duo affairs to add several added smokers on the apriorism in the advancing months, including two butt smokers on the aback patio. “Barbecue requires a lot of preparation,” says Herrmann, “we appetite to accomplish abiding that we’re not one of those places the runs out of meat aboriginal in the day.”
What barter currently see at Butt & Ashes is aloof the beginning, though. There are affairs to transform the aback patio—currently a baby parking lot—into a Texas-inspired backyard lined with alluvium and barbecue tables and able with ambit pits and strings of lights criss-crossing above. The restaurant hopes to accept the activity complete in the abutting bristles months or so, forth with an admiral “honky-tonk” amplitude that is still in its aboriginal planning stages.
For now, Butt & Ashes is already a must-try for any austere barbecue fan. Would you apprehend annihilation beneath from a restaurant dream aggregation that spent hundreds of hours on smoked meat research?
Barrel & Ashes, 11801 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818-623-8883
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